On this page you’ll find tips and tutorials for all the techniques used in the Tideline Tank pattern! I review the following topics on this page:

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Picking a Size

In the pattern, I suggest picking a size whose finished circumference is approx. 2-5″ larger than your actual bust circumference, depending on your desired fit.

There is also the option to add A-line shaping to the body, which allows for a slightly wider circumference down at the hips (about 3″ more in total circumference).

For reference, I’m wearing size 2 with approx. 2-3″ of positive ease at the bust and I work the A-line body shaping (as my hips are much wider than my bust).

How do the sizing labels correspond to traditional sizing labels?

This pattern uses size labels 1–10 instead of traditional sizes (S, M, L, etc.). Familiar size labels can sometimes influence size selection more than actual measurements, so I prefer to use numbered sizes and encourage you to choose based on the finished garment measurements and your desired amount of ease.

However, if you would like a general guide, here is how I would sizes 1-10 compare to traditional garment sizes (based on the Yarn Council’s Standard Sizing).

Size Label in Pattern	To Fit Bust Size	Traditional Sizing Label
1	28-32″	XS
2	32-34″	S
3	34-38″	M
4	40-42″	L
5	44-46″	XL
6	46-48″	2X
7	48-52″	3X
8	52-56″	4X
9	56-60″	5X
10	60-64″	6X

If you’re not sure about sizing, here are some tips:

• Measure a body width of a tank in your closet that you would like to replicate the fit of and compare that to the “B” measurement listed in the pattern schematic.
• If you’re unsure about adding A-line shaping or not, you don’t have to make a decision until after the Front/Back are connected. So you can always try it on after working an inch or so of the body and see if you think a little extra room would be a good idea.

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Yarn Options & Color Blocking

Tideline Tank calls for DK or Worsted-Weight yarn, because the stitch gauge is 20 stitches = 4″ (which typically works well for either of those weights).

The yarn I used is Sandnes Garn Line, a cotton/viscose/linen blend that I love working with for Summer-y projects! The other nice thing is that it’s perfect for color blocking because the pallet of hues works so well for pairing together. I’d consider this yarn to be a light-worsted-weight so it often works well for projects in the 19-21 stitches = 4″ range.

I designed this piece to work especially well with cotton, linen or blends (for warm-weather-wear) but wool yarns can work too. The only thing you may want to consider with wool is perhaps working an extra couple of rounds in the hem. The reason for this is that even though the trim is worked in garter stitch, because of the elasticity in wool yarns, you may need an extra garter ridge or two in order to ensure it lays flat. It’s not as much an issue with cotton or linen blends as these plant-based fibers don’t have much elasticity, so just a couple of garter ridges at the hem was enough to keep it flat. But wool behaves a little differently and so that’s just something to consider.

Below are just some of the yarn ideas that I think could work well (but if you have a local yarn shop near you, make sure to check with them too!)

• Juniper Moon Farm Zooey
• Berroco Modern Cotton or Pima 100
• Laines du Nord Soft Lino Yarn
• Noro Akari

Color Blocking

I used two colors in my Tideline, switching at about the waist area (approx 5-6″ from the underarm). However, you can make your Tideline 1 color, more colors – it’s totally up to you!

Important note: When swatching, make sure to incorporate both colors in the swatch so you can ensure they don’t bleed!

Yarn bleed is where color transfer occurs between a darker color and a lighter color. Although yarn manufacturers do their best to avoid this, it can still happen. And there are certain risk factors that can increase the likelihood of this happening. Very dark or saturated hues like a navy or dark cranberry red for example. Sometimes if there is bleed it might not be a huge deal if it’s just subtle (and perhaps you picked two hues in the same color family). But other times it can not be so subtle, so it’s best to test out your color pairing in the swatch to make sure.

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Test/Preview Knitter Inspiration

Below are photos from just a handful of my test/preview knitters so you can see how the sweater looks on different bodies and in different yarns/styles.

One important note to keep in mind when looking at these finished photos – post test knitting, I made one measurement alteration and that was decreasing the upper Back width, by about 1/2″ on each side. That’s the wonderful thing about test knitting is that it allows me to gain valuable insight and feedback from knitters so that the final version of the published pattern is as perfect as it can possibly be. So I thank all of my testers for being a part of this process! To view all the test knitter projects, click here for Ravelry.

(Note: use the arrows to view the multiple images for each person).

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Swatching and Gauge

Here are some tips when it comes to swatching and gauge for your Tideline Tank:

Gauge swatch in the round: Although you start the garment by working flat, the body is worked in the round. And since that is what determines your overall body circumference, you should swatch in the round to make sure you are getting the proper stitch gauge when working in the round. Click here for how to gauge swatch in the round.

Know your flat gauge too: When swatching, it may also be a good idea to work a portion of your swatch flat to see if your gauge changes at all. Mine flat knitting is always a bit looser than my in the round and that can be very common. If it is for you too, you can work this trick when working the flat portion of your Tideline: whenever working a WS row where you’re purling your stitches, use a needle size smaller. Check out my video lesson here for more info about this.

Swatch with both colors: As mentioned in the above section, incorporate the 2nd color in your swatch to ensure that the colors don’t bleed into each other after wet blocking.

Get stitch gauge but not row gauge?: If you get the right stitch gauge but not the right row gauge, don’t worry – it’s an easy modification. Scroll down for more details about it.

Can’t get stitch gauge (or prefer the fabric at a different gauge)?: This is also not a difficult adjustment – scroll below for more details.

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Got stitch gauge but not row gauge?

If you were able to get the correct stitch gauge but not the right row gauge, don’t worry – it’s easy to modify the pattern to work for your particular row gauge. The easiest option is this:

• In the Upper Back-Section 1, it lists a certain number of rows to work or until a certain length measurement is achieved. Keep track of how many rows you work in order to attain this measurement and then make a note how many more or less rows this is from what’s listed in the pattern.
• Then, when working the “Upper Front-Section 1” section (the section after you join the Right and Left Fronts together), just make sure to add or subtract that same number of rows here. So if in the Upper Back-Section 1 you worked 2 less rows than what was listed for your size, then make sure to subtract 2 rows from the number of rows listed in the Upper Front-Section 1.

Your overall armhole depth may still not quite match the schematic as the above modification doesn’t take into account the armhole shaping rows, but it will get you more in the ballpark at least. If you want to consider a more in-depth modification, feel free to reach out to me.

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Can’t get stitch gauge?

If you can’t get quite the right stitch gauge, or you just prefer your yarn’s fabric at a slightly different gauge, you can simply knit a different size in order to accommodate your particular stitch gauge. Or, you may find that at your particular gauge, the size you were thinking of will still work but allows for a different amount of ease.

Below are what the circumferences are of each of the sizes at different gauges. So for example, if you had been thinking of making size 2 which has a circumference of 36.75″, but your stitch gauge is 18 stitches = 4″, then size 2 will be 41″. This may work perfectly for you, but if you want closer to the original size 2, then you can knit size 1 which, at your gauge, will have a circumference of 37.25″.

Looser stitch gauges:

• If your gauge is 19 stitches = 4″, then the circumferences are: 35.25 (38.75, 42, 46.25) (49.75, 53, 56.5) (60.5, 64.75, 69)”
• If your gauge is 18 stitches = 4″, then the circumferences are: 37.25 (41, 44.5, 49) (52.5, 56, 59.5) (64, 68.5, 73)”

Tighter stitch gauges:

• If your gauge is 21 stitches = 4″, then the circumferences are: 32 (35, 38, 42) (45, 48, 51) (54.75, 58.75, 62.5)”
• If your gauge is 22 stitches = 4″, then the circumferences are: 30.5 (33.5, 36.5, 40) (43, 45.75, 48.75) (52.5, 56, 59.75)”

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Technique Tutorials

Below are tutorials for different techniques used in this pattern:

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Getting Started – Placing Markers

After cast-on, you’re instructed to place locking markers a certain number of stitches in from each edge. But unlike when you typically place markers, this time you’re attaching them onto the cast-on stitch itself and not on the needles.

The reason for this is because later on, when starting your fronts, these markers will be your guides as to where you pick up those front stitches.

The pattern provides a photograph of what it looks like, but I’ve also put larger photos down below so you can see it in more detail:

And for further detail, here you can see I have placed the locking marker on the 18th stitch in from the end.

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Starting Upper Fronts

When starting the Upper Left, the pattern says to insert needle into the left-side marked CO st on the Back (previously marked with a locking marker). Here is a visual of this:

I like to pick-up and knit underneath this cast-on stitch, into the “v” right underneath it.

Then you will knit this stitch, and then pick-up and knit the remaining cast-on stitches to the end.

Then when starting the Upper Right, the pattern says to insert needle into the first right-end Back CO st. Here is a visual of this:

Then you will knit this stitch, and then pick-up and knit each of the cast-on stitches, ending with the one marked by the locking marker.

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Joining Right/Left Fronts

The joining process for the fronts consists of 5 steps. Below are some images of each of these steps in case having a visual may be helpful as you going through this section.

Step 1:

Step 2:

Step 3:

Step 4:

Step 6:

Important Tip: In Step 5, the instructions say to knit the next stitch with both the working yarn and the tail left from the left front. This helps to reinforce the join. But it’s important to remember that when you encounter that stitch on the next row, it will have 2 loops (since it was knit with 2 strands) – make sure you don’t confuse that with being 2 stitches. Just knit the stitch as you typically would, knitting the 2 strands together.

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Underarm Connect

In this section of the pattern, the Front and Back are connected together, casting-on stitches at each underarm as part of that connection. Similar to what you did in connecting the Right and Left Front together, some special techniques are worked at each joining point to help reinforce the join.

Step 1: Transfer your Back sts from the holder onto an extra circ – your piece will look like the picture below once that is done.

Step 2: You’ll work across the Front to the last 2 stitches, and then work the same technique that you worked in Step 1 when Joining the Fronts together (kfb, slip 1, pass 2nd-stitch-in over the slipped stitch). So if you need a refresher, refer to the photos under “Step 1” in the above “Joining Right/Left Fronts Together” section.

Step 3: You’ll turn the work and cable cast-on a specified number of stitches, placing a marker when specified. Just like in step 2, this is the same technique that you did when joining your fronts, except this time you’re also placing a marker that will represent the side of the garment. If you need a refresher, refer to the photos under “Step 2” in the above “Joining Right/Left Fronts Together” section.

Important note: You’ll notice that you cast-on 1 more stitch after placing the side marker than was placed before placing it. This is because you’ll loose 1 stitch when working the next technique that helps to reinforce the join.

Step 4: This is where you’re just preparing the other needle (that has your Back stitches on it), so that it becomes your “left needle”. So it’s similar to “Step 3” in the above “Joining Right/Left Fronts Together” section.

Step 5: You’ll slip 1 from the needle with the Back stitches onto the needle with the front stitches. And then work the “pass 2nd-stitch-in over the slipped stitch” technique – so the same technique as worked in “Step 4” in the above “Joining Right/Left Fronts Together” section.

Step 6: Similar to when joining the fronts, I suggest knitting the next stitch with both the working yarn as well as the tail that was on the Back – this helps to reinforce the join. And then after that first stitch, continue with just the working yarn to the last 2 stitches on the Back. Photos below for a visual:

Step 7: You’ll work the same technique here as you did in step 1 of this section.

Step 8: You’ll work the same technique here as you did in step 2 of this section, but when placing a marker make sure it’s a different color or style than your other side marker because this one will be your beginning-of-round (BOR marker).

Step 9: Similar to step 4, you want to push the right-end of the Front stitches towards the needle tip so that you’re preparing to join your piece in the round (first photo below). Then you’ll work the same technique as you’ve done all along of slipping one (second photo below) and then you’ll work the technique of “insert left needle into 2nd-st-in on the right needle and pass it over the slipped stitch”.

Step 10: At this point, you want to get back to your BOR marker to officially start the first round. So you cut the yarn and you’ll slip each of the stitches from the right needle onto the left needle until you reach the BOR marker. The first photo below show how I insert the left needle into the stitch on the right needle to slip it. And the second photo shows what it looks like once I’ve made my way to the BOR marker again.

Step 11: The final step – just rejoin the yarn and then knit the entire round! When rejoining, I simply drape it over the right needle as shown below, and then just start working with it.

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Tips on working the body

Whether you’re working no body shaping or A-line shaping, the instructions tell you to switch to color B once the body measures approx 5.5″ from the underarm connect. This puts the transition line at just slightly above the half way mark of the overall body length (if working the length as written), and just above the natural waist. However, this can be subjective as everyone’s waist can fall a little differently on your torso. Feel free to switch colors whenever it feels right to you!

For the A-line shaping:

The instructions tell you that after working 3″ even at the underarm, you’ll work an increase round, and then instructed to repeat that increase round every 21st round 3 times. That translates to this: Work in St st for 20 rounds, work an increase round (that’s 1 repeat), then work in St st for 20 rounds, work an increase round (that’s 2 repeats), and then work in St st for 20 rounds, work an increase round (that’s the final third repeat).

It also says that at the same time as working this increase repeat, you’ll want to change from color A to color B once the body measures approx. 5.5″ from the underarm, or your desired location for the start of color B. So you’ll just need to keep an eye on that measurement length as you continue with the shaping sequence.

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Working armhole trim

When starting the armhole trim, you’re instructed to start at the center of the underarm and then initially pick-up and knit the left-side underarm sts. Below are visuals of this:

Then you’re instructed to pick-up and knit 3 stitches for every 4 rows around the armhole. For more tutorials on this, click here.

Note: if after you work one side of the trim, it looks like it’s flaring a bit or just a bit too loose, there are two things you can consider:

• You may need to go down 1 needle size. If the stitches themselves look loose, then this is what I’d advise.
• You may need to pick-up and knit fewer stitches. If the stitches don’t look loose but it appears that it’s flaring out a bit, then I’d suggest picking-up and knitting 2 stitches for every 3 rows instead of 3 stitches for every 4 rows. This may happen if your row gauge was a lot looser in the armhole depth area.

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Working Neck Trim

Check out my video lesson that guides you through the process step-by-step!

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Blocking

After knitting your Tideline Tank, it will likely look a bit unfinished. Below are some “before blocking” pictures of my initial prototype. As you can see, my bottom trim was flipping up a bit and the fabric just looked unpolished…

But then after blocking, the bottom hem now lays flat and the fabric overall looks more even and polished. I also used a steamer to de-crease the sides a bit after taking off the blocking tiles (learn more about de-creasing with a steamer here).

Are you new to wet blocking? Check out my video lesson here! It’s for a different design but the methods I use are the same.

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