Elizabeth Zimmerman Phony Seam

The Elizabeth Zimmermann ‘Phony Seam’ technique is a great way to give a garment a bit of side structure without having to knit it in pieces and seam the sides. The technique creates a vertical fold in the fabric that mimics having an actual seam. I use this technique in my Freeport Vest:

But you can use this technique or any bottom-up garment, even if the pattern doesn’t call for it. If it doesn’t, you just need to identify your middle side stitch at each side. Ready to learn how to work this technique? Check out my photo tutorial below!

Step 1: Work to faux seam stitch and take it off the needle:

Step 2: Unravel stitch all the way down to cast-on edge:

Step 3: Put bottom stitch on crochet hook:

Step 4: Put crochet hook under 2 strands above:

Step 5: Pull 2 strands through the 1 loop on your hook:

Step 6: You will now have 2 loops on your hook

Step 7: Put hook under 1 strand above:

Step 8: Pull this 1 strand through the 2 loops on the hook:

Step 9: You now have 1 loop on your hook:

Step 10: Continue in this manner, first hooking 2 strands through the 1 loop…

Step 11: …Then hooking 1 strand through 2 loops on the hook:

Step 12: Repeat until you work your way back to the top:

Your phony seam is complete! Repeat for the other side.