Brooklin Tips Page

On this page you’ll find tips and tutorials for the techniques used in the Brooklin Vest. This page reviews the following techniques:

Picking a Size

There are 4 possible sizes to pick from in Brooklin (listed 1-4). Each of these sizes is meant to fit a wide range of bust sizes, as noted in the pattern and I’ve also noted it below:

  • Size Small = fits busts 30-36″
  • Size Medium = fits busts 38-44″
  • Size Large = fit busts 46-52″
  • Size X-Large = fit busts 54-60″

Another measurement to look at when deciding between sizes is the Crossback measurement (listed as “A” in the schematic on page 4).

Other sizing considerations:

  • Crossback measurement: This is listed as “A” in the schematic in the pattern and measures approx 13 (14, 15, 16)”. Crossback is the measurement across your back, shoulder bone to shoulder bone (not including underarm). For a quick video on this measurement, click here. Your crossback should ideally be approx. 0-1″ less than that listed in the pattern. When in doubt, size down.
  • Top to bottom measurement: This is how the piece will wear on your body lengthwise (although in the pattern it’s considered the “width” since it’s knit side-to-side). So basically, where it will fall on your backside (at your natural waist, covering part of your behind or fully covering it).
    • Because of the top edge will fold over, this measurement is listed as “F” in the pattern schematic which is 18 (20, 22, 24)”.
    • To compare this measurement to your actual body, take a tape measure and starting at your back neck measure that length downwards.
    • Depending on your height, torso length and desired fit, if you may want to adjust your Brooklin so it falls further on your backside, follow my tips below.

To make it longer (so it covers part/all of your backside)

The easiest option for making it longer is to cast-on for a size larger, since the cast-on amount determines the overall depth from top to bottom. Here is you would do that:

  • Step 1: Determine how many more inches you would prefer along your backside. For 2″ more, cast-on for 1 size larger. For 4″ more, cast-on for 2 sizes larger (note: if there aren’t any additional sizes offered, send me an email and I’ll provide you a customized option!).
  • Step 2: Although you’ll be casting-on for a larger size, follow the pattern exactly as written for the smaller size (the size you would have cast-on if not for that backside measurement) EXCEPT in these areas:
    • In Left and Right Front “Create Armhole” rows: Before working the bind-off you are instructed to knit a certain number of stitches. Take the number listed there for the size you had cast-on for and add 2 to it (if you had sized up by just 1 size; if you had sized up by 2 sizes then add 4). Then for the BO, bind-off the number of stitches listed for the size you wanted.
      • For example: if you cast-on for size 3 to extra fabric for your backside but based on your bust you should be size 2, then you would knit 42 (instead of the 40 that is listed for size 3), then BO 27 (the number listed for size 2).

Another option, for those with a bit more modification experience, is you could work some shaping on one side of the garment. On the Left Front, you could work a “kfb” increase towards the end of a RS row (in the garter stitch area), perhaps 2 sts from the end, every 6th or 8th row. Less if you want a more dramatic increase. Then work even through your Back and then work a similarly spaced decrease on the Right Front so it mirrors the Left Front.

Yarn Options

The pattern calls for bulk-weight yarn because the stitch gauge is 14.5 stitches = 4″ in stockinette stitch (a common bulky-weight gauge). I used Vintage Chunky by Berroco – it’s a great option, available in lots of colors and has a good price point as well. Below are some other bulky yarns that I think would work well too:

  • Woolfolk Luft
  • Berroco Ultra Alpaca Chunky
  • Berroco Gimlet
  • Berroco Emberstone
  • Noro Rikka

Looking for a bit more looseness/drape?

Another option to consider is that there is a lot of flexibility in terms of the fabric in this piece. What I mean by that is bulky-weight will create a fabric that will give the piece more structure (as seen in the photos), but you can opt to use a thinner yarn – but knit it at the same gauge as that in the pattern (so still on a US 10, or maybe a US 10.5 needle) – and this will create a looser, drapier fabric. In an open-style layering piece like Brooklin, either option works (structure OR drape).

An example is this swatch I knit up – instead of bulky-weight on a US 10, I double-stranded a sport/DK-weight with a lace-weight mohair on a US 10. I got the pattern gauge, but the fabric is more light and airy. Yarn shown here is Berroco Ultra Alpaca Light + Berroco Aerial.

Another option you could consider is just using a worsted-weight on a US 10 or US 10.5 (whichever gets you closer to the pattern gauge). Again, the fabric will be on the loose side, but a garment like Brooklin has that flexibility.

In terms of yardage needed if you go with a lighter weight yarn, the yardage suggested in the pattern should still work. If double-stranding, you’ll need the yardage listed for each of the yarns used. So if going with my Ultra Alpaca Light + Aerial mohair option, and if you were making size 1 which suggests approx 615 yds total, you would want to have approx 615 yds of Ultra Alpaca Light (so 5 skeins) and 615 yds of Aerial (so 3 skeins).

Long tail cast-on

To watch my video on how I like to work the long-tail cast-on method (I use the thumb method), click here.

Binding-off in the middle of your work

One important aspect of binding-off in the middle of your work is this: in order to work the first bind-off, you have to work 2 stitches. So for example, if the pattern says to bind-off the next 25 stitches, to start you will knit 2 stitches, then insert the left needle into the 2nd-stitch-in on the right needle and lift it up and over the last stitch and off the needle – one stitch has now been bound-off. Moving forward, you’ll just need to knit 1 stitch and then you can work the bind-off.

For a visual of this and to watch my video on how I bind-off in the middle of my work, click here.

Cable cast-on

To watch my video lesson on how to cable cast-on, click here. Note: in the video I’m casting-on stitches at the beginning of a row, but the technique I’m using is the same even if you are casting-on in the middle of a row like you’re doing in Brooklin.